Let’s Fall In Love With Fashion All Over Again.

I have loved fashion my entire life (yes, even from when I was a small girl).  Well, I certainly loved clothes and the art of dressing from a very young age

As a lover of fashion, I have gone through many phases. There have been years that have brought so much joy and creativity, so much fun, newness and excitement.  For me personally, my love of fashion is due to the creativity, the artistry and the introduction of new feelings and emotions through clothing.  How, one day, you can experience yourself in a whole new way and have a whole new feeling about yourself and who you are, to have an adventure in life purely through what you’re wearing.  This has always been something that truly entrances me about fashion.   

Timeless

Yet, there are other times when I have become jaded—when I find fashion quite tedious. There is so much gloom and doom about its impact on the planet with the tremendous rise of super cheap and environmentally impactful fast fashion.  There are even days when I question why I’m in this industry and why I haven’t found something else to engage myself with.  There have been times when I’ve actually looked to find an alternative expression for myself through art, interiors or other types of business.   

Yet, I’m still here, and recently, I’m excited to share with you that I have a whole new sense of excitement, inspiration and fulfilment around fashion, particularly my own wardrobe.  Would you like to learn more about that? I’m sure you would, so let’s read on.

In the past few years, I have been honing my sense of sartorial excellence and individuality. As someone in fashion, I have spent many years following trends (to some extent, at least), and now I see how much we are intrinsically affected by surrounding trends.  I do believe it’s very hard to escape trends; they are just on the periphery of our everyday lives.  

Nevertheless, I have developed my own sense of individuality in style and this is what is exciting, inspiring and fulfilling and something you may want to take on for yourself.  Now, my wardrobe is divided into a few categories:

  •  VINTAGE AND MY OLD CLOTHES: I am fortunate enough to have some 20 or even 20+-year-old Tom Ford Gucci, Prada, Miu Miu, and Marni that I still wear. These are my old clothes, and I wear them because they really are the type of items I chose back then and still love now.  As with vintage - I’m not a big vintage shopper or even a secondhand shopper.  Clearly, I need to break through and overcome any barriers I have towards wearing other people's old clothes.  Nevertheless, I have invested in a few iconic and timeless pieces, and they are items I know I can resell in the future because of their brand status.  If this is something you’re interested in, you can research it and find which items you could invest in for yourself and the future.

Tom Ford Gucci

  • UPCYCLED: For the clothing items I have absolutely loved but know I will never wear again, I have upcycled them.  This includes my wedding dress and other items around my wedding, and generally, things that I probably wouldn’t wear in that form due to their style and details, but I still love them, the fabric, the essence.  As you’ve seen on my social media, I have quite a beautiful collection of upcycled items, which I love.

Upcycled

  • TAILOR-MADE AND DESIGNER BOUGHT: I know my style and love tailoring and statement dressing.  So, for my tailoring, I have historically bought many different brands of tailoring, but now I tend to buy from a tailor.  I tend to have my items custom-made and handmade.  Fortunately, in Hong Kong, we can do that at a very affordable price, and this is something I strongly recommend.  Tailoring is timeless.  A three-piece suit can be worn in many different ways, and if you extend this to adding a skirt or shorts, the iterations are infinite.  These are also key pieces I am buying from designers I love.  This includes  Sharon Wauchob.   These are items I will wear forever, so I buy directly from designers who I want to support and wear their pieces.  My relationship with Sharon has been very long, and I have become fortunate enough to get to know her and buy from her directly, which is extraordinary. 

Tailored

  • ICONIC DESIGN ITEMS: The next area is key pieces from timeless brands.  I’ve previously talked about F.R.S. (For Restless Sleepers) and “Missoni”.  These pieces are fundamentally resort wear that I can wear for years.  This leaves me with a few essential items that I may buy new from some brands that I absolutely love.  Recently - The Row.  I haven’t purchased any clothing from The Row yet, but I bought a pair of loafers.  Why do I love these brands? It is their commitment to quality that is extraordinary.  When you buy these pieces, they are not just fashionable. These are investment-worthy, vintage-worthy and timeless. 

Investment Vintage

In summary,  maybe nothing has changed in fashion, but what has changed is my approach to it.  Moving away from the brands I don’t feel I resonate with, away from trends and being present with what is important for me over the long term, not just feeling good and looking good.  How about you?  What will make the difference for you?  I would love to know.

As always, live life, have fun and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

All About Recycled Fabrics - Especially Recycled Polyester.

In recent years, the fashion industry has come under a lot of scrutiny for its environmental impact.  No surprise for readers here; we’ve been discussing this endlessly on this blog.  It is clear that there needs to be other options for virgin polyester, cotton and other materials.  This blog is going to focus on recycled polyester. 

Shutterstock image curtesy of PFI Fareast

Recycled materials are often referred to as upcycled or repurposed materials.  They are made from pre-existing materials that have been diverted from landfill and given a second life.  These include anything from recycled polyester made from plastic bottles or reclaimed/repurposed denim or leather.  One of the main benefits of using recycled materials in fashion is the reduction of waste by diverting materials from landfills and giving them a new purpose.  The fashion industry has been pressured to reduce its impact on the environment; therefore, recycled polyester has become the go-to, as it addresses a number of sustainability metrics, including energy GHGs and not using virgin materials.  It also creates a great awareness of the importance of a shift to a circular economy instead of a linear model.   From “take, make and waste” to a circular economy.  Brands aim to minimise waste and make the most of existing resources to help close the loop and contribute to a more sustainable and regenerative system. 

Polyester is widely used in the fashion industry, but it is a dirty material.  It’s a petroleum derivative, and “it can be 168 days without ironing and still look presentable”.  That was how it was advertised when it was invented in 1941.

Recently, recycled polyester has become very popular, especially during the past ten years.  This has coincided with the rise of fast fashion brands, as it is easy, very durable and low cost.  This fabric is a more sustainable and eco-friendly version widely used in fast fashion.  Recycled polyester, also known as rPET, is a textile made from recycled plastic bottles.  It has been created as an alternative to virgin polyester.   It addresses the sustainability challenges but not the eco solution to virgin polyester.  

There are downsides.  Nothing is ever that straightforward and simple.  There are key drawbacks which we will address here.

  1. MISLEADING or GREENWASHING
    Recycled polyester, also known as rPet, is a textile made from recycled plastic bottles.  It is an alternative to traditional polyester, but that is as sustainable as it gets - overall, it is not particularly environmentally friendly.  It’s still one of the most used materials in clothing, and why is that?  Probably because it’s cheap and easy to us.

  2. NOT REALLY CIRCULAR
    Recycled polyester has a reduced quality, making it less strong. It can also often smell and is still somewhat condoning the use of crude oil-based processes and materials.  It uses plastic bottles, which are transformed into polyester, which is good as the bottles do not need to go into landfill.  However, this involves a lot of manual processing and washing.  Also, making fibres for fabrics ends the ability to be recycled again as the polyester is often mixed or blended with other materials to make it suitable for making clothes (Lycra, nylon, elastane).  It ceases being a mono-fibre.  Separating materials in fashion fabrics is very expensive and in limited supply.

  3. VERIFICATION (is it really recycled). 
    There is also a supply issue with plastic bottles, but we don’t ever really know as some suppliers are buying new bottles to use in the manufacturing of rPet.

  4. MICROPLASTICS
    The age-old issue of microplastic release still exists as the polyester continues to be washed. The garments will still shed microplastics, which, obviously, is very harmful to the environment and human and animal life.  

Image curtesy of Fashion United

So, let’s look at it again: is recycled polyester a step in the right direction?  It creates awareness about fashion at end of life and about the benefits of recycling.  The most sustainable option would be to buy close secondhand.  However, if you are going to buy something new and you are going to buy polyester, it’s definitely better to buy recycled than virgin.

 As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

All About: Cellulosic Fabrics.

In this series, we have been exploring Sustainable Materials and alternatives to “thirsty” and “dirty” fabrics.  In this blog, we will explore Cellulosic Fabrics.

You may be asking what exactly cellulosic fabrics are.  “Cellulosic fibres are fibres made with ethers or esters of cellulose, which can be obtained from the bark, wood or leaves of plants, or other plant-based material.”  So, basically, fibres that originate from natural sources.  Which, when discussing sustainable fashion, is definitely a significant factor.  No oil or excessive water use - right?  Cellulosic fibres are mainly used in the textile industry as their properties are similar to engineered fibres. 

There are two types of cellulosic fibres: natural and regenerated.  

Types and Classification of Cellolusic Fibres:
There are several types of cellulosic fibres, which can be broadly classified into two categories:

  • Natural cellulosic fibres &

  • Regenerated cellulosic fibres

Fig: Classification of cellulosic fibres  “TextileEngineering.net”

Those natural fibres are used in various degrees.  Cotton, of course, is the most widely used, with linen next.  Interestingly, the other natural fibres have much less usage. In contrast, the regenerated cellulosic fibres are produced in massive quantities.   

The most popular cellulose fibre is Viscose, which has been used in the textile industry since its invention as “rayon” or “artificial silk” in the 1890s.  Viscose makes up around 80% of all of the cellulose production.  Viscose, or other wood-originating fibres, seem to be a great alternative to Polyester and Cotton.  However, they do come with their own challenges and impact.  The massive production of viscose is created through the use of heavy chemical processes, which are toxic to human health and the environment.  Below is an excerpt from “Common Objective”, which defines this further.

From Common Objective:

“Types of cellulosic are differentiated according to their production techniques:

  • Viscose – a linear open production process that uses carbon disulphide, sodium hydroxide and sulphuric acid (all known toxins to human health and the environment).

  • Modal – the same chemicals are applied throughout the process, but the modified chemical baths contribute to higher wet strength of modal fibres.

  • Lyocell – a similar process as viscose, but replacing sodium hydroxide with an organic solvent called N-methylmorphine-N-oxide. There is also 100% recycling of the chemicals and water used. Lyocell is usually marketed under its two brand names, TENCEL and MONOCEL.

  • Recycled fibre-based manmade fibres – relatively recent technological improvements have allowed the development of manmade fibres based on recycled content.”

Clearly, the same issues are faced in the production and use of cellulosic fibres as with other materials in the supply chain.  The easiest and cheapest ways to produce are those that have been mainly used.  We can all agree that using natural sources for material is preferable to the use of crude oil.  However, more is needed to make it better.  There are two critical factors in determining the sustainable credibility of these materials. 

1)  Where do they originate, and how are those resources replenished?

2) How are they regenerated or turned into the end fabric, and what processes and chemicals are involved?

Regenerated cellulosic fibres come from trees or wood pulp.  This means that trees are used in large quantities, and we all know of the impact of deforestation.  Fortunately, many sustainable measures have been taken to improve this and provide Eco options.  As always, we quote our favourite eco fashion maven, Stella McCartney, who has “forest friendly viscose,” especially with their signature stretch acetate-viscose cady used in tailoring and evening wear.  The brand has partnered with Canopy to provide FSC (Forest Stewardship Certified) viscose.  They have developed awareness around the production of forest-based fibres, working on a Life Cycle Assessment on the impact of viscose.  Prior to 2017, this was largely unknown.  The LCA provided insight into the entire process, from harvesting from the forests through the production of viscose and other MMCFs (manmade cellulosic fibres).  This is a great step forward, not only from the fabrics themselves but also from the awareness this has created in the industry at large.  

However, this is not all.  Stella is creating the “future of viscose”.  The vision of which is to move away from virgin wood pulp entirely.

“We believe the future of viscose in fashion is about using Nex-Gen and recycled inputs – like agricultural waste and post-consumer textiles – to make viscose and displace the role of virgin tree pulp. We want to tread even lighter on our planet, and we are working hard to get there.” 

The brand is working on “Nex-Gen” fabrics using recycled input, post-consumer and agricultural waste.  For further information, see  Evrnu® and NuCycl™.

The second issue with MMCFs is the chemicals used in the process of regenerating them, which (as we identified earlier) are harmful to human health.  However, there has been tremendous progress in this area, too, with Lenzing being a great example.

“In 1977, Lenzing began using an eco-friendly bleaching method for its cellulosic fibres. The process is less toxic, reuses the chemicals and sources beech trees from FSC or PEFC-accredited forests. Lenzing trademarked its modal fabric as TENCEL Modal®.”

“Win-Win.info”

Yes, Cellulosic fibres are a good option for materials.  They do not use crude oil and (very importantly) can be recycled.  However, not all cellulosic fibres are the same.  We really need to be aware of what we are buying and how they have been produced.  The market has very viably sustainable options; as conscious consumers, it is our duty to educate ourselves and those around us to buy more consciously.  If we think these conscious materials are too expensive, buy fewer or secondhand.  Always go with your dollars, ask questions, and look for those brands promoting robustly sustainable options.

KEY POINTS WHEN BUYING MMCFs:  

  • FSC / Canopy origin

  • ⁠Consider where & how the fibres were processed.

  • Opt for the Sustainable options through the brand names here.

There are always ways to be better as consumers; much of it is our choice.  We can make an impact by shopping more consciously and not opting for virgin polyester because it is easier or cheaper.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Kate xx

Is the Future of Fashion Lab-Grown?

In my blogs, we frequently discuss the environmental impact of “thirsty” and “dirty” materials used in the fashion industry.  How wasteful and toxic our currently used materials and processes are on nature, biodiversity, oceans and, by large, on the planet's future.

Image curtesy of Iberdrola

We have also considered how there seems to be very little change to these ongoing problems, such as the microplastic issue from the dependence upon polyester and other petroleum-based materials.  You may say, “There’s lots of recycled polyester being used”.  Yes, there is, but that does not end the microfibre shedding issue, and, ultimately, those recycled polyesters do not disappear; they just end up in landfills, living forever.

At the risk of feeling resigned about all of this, we need to look a little bit closer.  What are the alternatives available to replace these dirty and thirsty fabrics? 

There has been press and social media content related to “bio-fabrication” and the urgency required to get these to market.  We saw a lot of noise surrounding material suppliers, such as “Modern Meadow”,  “Spiber”, and Bolt Threads” in the pre-pandemic years (2108-2019).  Yet here we are 3 to 4 years later, and there doesn’t seem to have been a great deal of growth.  Certainly, the brand that frequently features on this blog, “Stella McCartney”, has partnered extensively with some of these tremendous materials providers, so, yes, they are in the market.  Other Brands include “Outdoor Voices”, “Sacai”, and “North Face”.  While these developments are progress, this really isn’t the mainstream.  Until mainstream fashion adopts some of these technologies, the reliance upon polyester will continue.

Stella McCartney Shift Dress using Microsilk from Bolt Threads

So, let’s look deeper into what these fabrics are and what is possible when we utilise them.  

As we stated earlier, these fabrics are what we’ve referred to as “lab-grown”. The process is “bio-fabrication”, and the idea is that “garments are grown rather than sewn, cultivated in huge labs under precise conditions”.  These originate from nature, mainly from mould or algae, bacteria and fungi, which grow in labs.  They exist without any real impact on the environment and are being used for leather as an alternative for creating sneakers.  Another great example is the “Moon Parker”, a collaboration with North Face and Japanese textile innovator Spiber, a brewed protein described as synthetic spider silk.  “Spy” also produced T-shirts with Sacai and sweaters with “Goldwyn”, all made from the same material.  This is all so great.  So why aren’t we seeing more of this?  We know that Adidas have made Stan Smith Sneakers from “Mylo”, which is a mushroom leather.  It is also extensively used by Stella McCartney, coming from “Bolt Threads”, a California start-up that produces the material. 

So, what’s good about all of these fabrics?  Well, clearly, we have discussed the sustainability aspect - they do not use huge amounts of water such as is needed with cotton, and there are no microplastics and subsequent waste left in our oceans.  The great benefit of biofabrics is they can degrade to almost nothing or return to biomass within a few weeks.  They are compostable and can also be grown to fulfil specific needs, so there is a massive reduction in waste.  When looking at these kinds of fabrics, we see huge benefits from reducing water usage and petroleum-based substances to the end of life solutions.   

Imagine a future where these amazing fabrics are created and made into products nearby.  What an extraordinary world with the reduction of so many currently existing environmental and ethical challenges.  It seems such an easy solution to replace materials and processes.  So what’s the downside? An article from “The Business of Fashion” titled “Are New Materials Ready to Go Mainstream?” , stated: 

“A big challenge for new materials, as they look to enter the market, is that they must compete with tried-and-tested products on price, performance and aesthetics, while the scientific and sustainability credentials that may make them groundbreaking technologies are unlikely to resonate with the average shopper.”

The issue here is that it remains challenging to commercialise biofabrics not only through scale, price and performance but also through customer acceptance.  While we see biofabrics being used by sustainable fashion maven Stella McCartney and even Yeezy, we don’t see any companies where a significant impact will be made.  We have seen some activities from Adidas and Nike, but not conclusively where they say our sneakers will only be made from this.  What it requires is for a large brand to take this on and produce at scale, bring down the cost and raise the commercialisation.  Then we can really change things and create a world where the impact on biodiversity, ocean waste and end of life can truly be addressed. Let’s hope that day is coming soon.

What do you think?

 As always, love life and enjoy Fashion.

Kate xx

Let’s Talk About Vegan Leather

During the past ten years, there have been a lot of discussions regarding leather and leather alternatives.  For those who are committed to not wearing animal products, this has been a well-documented journey.  In this blog, we will explore the use of leather and its alternatives and what is the best way forward as a conscious and aware consumer.

Source & Copyright by freepik

Leather is a material I have worn and bought for many years.  I really love shoes and bags; I also have some beautiful leather jackets, pants and even shorts (you know I keep my clothes and accessories for a long time).  Leather is certainly perceived as a luxurious material, hence its desirability - until recently.  With the increase of veganism and awareness for animal welfare, using this animal resource became far less desirable, and replacements were needed.

The Sustainable Material and Fashion Maven and pioneer - Stella McCartney - has never used leather in her namesake brand.  When she launched her famous Falabella bag in a leather alternative (since replaced by “Mylo™ – an innovative new material that looks and feels like leather, but is vegan and grown from mycelium, the underground root structure of mushrooms.”)  I found it hard to understand, she was clearly ahead of her time, and I was too distracted with what Gucci, Celine and others were making.   

“Stella McCartney has never used leather, feathers, fur or skin since day one. By taking this stance, we are proof it is possible to create beautiful luxury products that are cruelty-free.  As well as being cruel, leather’s environmental impact is incredibly high.  Animal agriculture accounts for around 18% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions and is driving the destruction of our rainforests.”

McCartney has really forged a progressive journey towards leather alternatives with lower environmental impact, as well as a negative effect on animals.  

Image Source: Mylo™

The more popular alternative has been “vegan leather”, which also supports animal rights.  However, by now, the dirty secret is out.  Many vegan leathers are made from PU or PVC - yes, our old friend oil.  So they last for a very long time, if not forever.  We know a lot about the impact of oil-based materials.  

Additionally, the treatment and manufacturing processes also contribute to the negative environmental impact.  There was a time when so many people were excited by vegan leather; I remember receiving a lovely gift from a friend.  Sadly, the materials and processes were not well known.  Yet, every cloud has a silver lining.

The disappointment or unease regarding PU-based vegan leather led to other tremendous innovations and discoveries, including natural-based materials and oil-free alternatives, such as mushroom leather, developed by such companies as Bolt Threads, Myco Works, and Ecovative.  Bolt Threads and Myco Works are used a lot by Stella McCartney and have very credible alternatives.  Another well-known option is Pinatex, which was created by Dr Carmen Hijosa. Piñatex is from cellulose fibres extracted from pineapple leaves - “../while far more eco-friendly than PU and PVC leathers in terms of requiring fewer carbon emissions to produce, it is still mixed with polylactic acid and a petroleum-based resin, which makes the end-product non-biodegradable.”  Others include apple & mango leathers.  There is also “Vegea” made from grape skin and used by H&M in bags and shoes, as well as cactus leather “Desserto Leather”.  

There are so many exciting alternatives, yet there are still so many leather bags and shoes being sold.  Will some major brands or retailers step forward and commit to a new direction?  Perhaps some legislation will be implemented to reduce the use of leather.  

For us personally (as consumers), you may ask, “What should I do?”

If you have bags in your wardrobe, select those first.  There are so many available on resale sites, or swap and borrow with friends.  As I research and write about these materials, trends and evolutions, I really value what I have in my closet.  Prices have rocketed for branded bags, which again drives some level of consumption.  

There are also incredible brands making an impact in ethical luxury, including the beloved “Stelar”  and “Maestoso”.  Ask yourself what is important when making this purchase, how long do you intend to use it, and what happens when you no longer want it.

As always, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love,

Kate xx