Let’s Talk About Vegan Leather

During the past ten years, there have been a lot of discussions regarding leather and leather alternatives.  For those who are committed to not wearing animal products, this has been a well-documented journey.  In this blog, we will explore the use of leather and its alternatives and what is the best way forward as a conscious and aware consumer.

Source & Copyright by freepik

Leather is a material I have worn and bought for many years.  I really love shoes and bags; I also have some beautiful leather jackets, pants and even shorts (you know I keep my clothes and accessories for a long time).  Leather is certainly perceived as a luxurious material, hence its desirability - until recently.  With the increase of veganism and awareness for animal welfare, using this animal resource became far less desirable, and replacements were needed.

The Sustainable Material and Fashion Maven and pioneer - Stella McCartney - has never used leather in her namesake brand.  When she launched her famous Falabella bag in a leather alternative (since replaced by “Mylo™ – an innovative new material that looks and feels like leather, but is vegan and grown from mycelium, the underground root structure of mushrooms.”)  I found it hard to understand, she was clearly ahead of her time, and I was too distracted with what Gucci, Celine and others were making.   

“Stella McCartney has never used leather, feathers, fur or skin since day one. By taking this stance, we are proof it is possible to create beautiful luxury products that are cruelty-free.  As well as being cruel, leather’s environmental impact is incredibly high.  Animal agriculture accounts for around 18% of the world’s greenhouse gas emissions and is driving the destruction of our rainforests.”

McCartney has really forged a progressive journey towards leather alternatives with lower environmental impact, as well as a negative effect on animals.  

Image Source: Mylo™

The more popular alternative has been “vegan leather”, which also supports animal rights.  However, by now, the dirty secret is out.  Many vegan leathers are made from PU or PVC - yes, our old friend oil.  So they last for a very long time, if not forever.  We know a lot about the impact of oil-based materials.  

Additionally, the treatment and manufacturing processes also contribute to the negative environmental impact.  There was a time when so many people were excited by vegan leather; I remember receiving a lovely gift from a friend.  Sadly, the materials and processes were not well known.  Yet, every cloud has a silver lining.

The disappointment or unease regarding PU-based vegan leather led to other tremendous innovations and discoveries, including natural-based materials and oil-free alternatives, such as mushroom leather, developed by such companies as Bolt Threads, Myco Works, and Ecovative.  Bolt Threads and Myco Works are used a lot by Stella McCartney and have very credible alternatives.  Another well-known option is Pinatex, which was created by Dr Carmen Hijosa. Piñatex is from cellulose fibres extracted from pineapple leaves - “../while far more eco-friendly than PU and PVC leathers in terms of requiring fewer carbon emissions to produce, it is still mixed with polylactic acid and a petroleum-based resin, which makes the end-product non-biodegradable.”  Others include apple & mango leathers.  There is also “Vegea” made from grape skin and used by H&M in bags and shoes, as well as cactus leather “Desserto Leather”.  

There are so many exciting alternatives, yet there are still so many leather bags and shoes being sold.  Will some major brands or retailers step forward and commit to a new direction?  Perhaps some legislation will be implemented to reduce the use of leather.  

For us personally (as consumers), you may ask, “What should I do?”

If you have bags in your wardrobe, select those first.  There are so many available on resale sites, or swap and borrow with friends.  As I research and write about these materials, trends and evolutions, I really value what I have in my closet.  Prices have rocketed for branded bags, which again drives some level of consumption.  

There are also incredible brands making an impact in ethical luxury, including the beloved “Stelar”  and “Maestoso”.  Ask yourself what is important when making this purchase, how long do you intend to use it, and what happens when you no longer want it.

As always, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love,

Kate xx

Sustainable Material Innovations

Exploring  Sustainable Fashion: Lab-Grown Fabrics and Innovative Textiles. What is the latest news with these, and why do they appear so scarce?

One of the most fascinating areas of Sustainable Fashion is the frontiers of Sustainable material innovation, including lab-grown, cellulosic and recycled innovations.  It is one of the most satisfying subjects when done with awareness and innovation.  I am so inspired when I look at the Stella McCartney materials strategy.

Image curtesy of Stella McCartney

The growth of fast fashion and clothing production has relied upon low-cost materials, primarily cotton and polyester–either thirsty crops or dirty fabrics (using oil).  Cheap fashion is not clean; the dependency on these fabrics has led to fashion being the third most polluting industry (after oil and agriculture).  Using such fabrics is an easy solution to meeting margin targets and speed-to-market.  Yet, we all know this is not sustainable.  So, what have been the developments for those committed to transforming these fabric offerings? 

One important area and a greener alternative is Cellulosic Fabrics.

Cellulosic fabrics, such as Tencel, Modal, and Lyocell, are increasingly gaining popularity in the fashion industry for their numerous benefits for sustainable fashion.  These fabrics are made from cellulose, a plant-based material, which makes them biodegradable and eco-friendly.  These fabrics are derived from renewable sources such as wood pulp from trees and bamboo, making them a more environmentally friendly alternative to synthetic or petroleum-based fabrics.  Additionally, the production process for cellulosic fabrics requires fewer chemicals and less water compared to other types of fabrics, reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact.

These fabrics are a great alternative to cotton and especially polyester, as they are easier to recycle and reuse.  The production of these fabrics does not have the same impact as non-natural synthetics.  The fabrics are also less impactful at the end of life, resulting in a much reduced environmental impact.

Other exciting developments include lab-grown or biofabricated materials, including “Modern Meadow”, “Spiber”, and “Bolt Threads”.  Who raised considerable investment when money was cheaper. They are providing extraordinary alternatives to such impactful materials as silk and leather.  These innovations are lab-grown alternatives to some of our most-used materials, especially leather.

These innovative materials provide robust solutions to their dirty and thirsty predecessors.  So, what could possibly go wrong?

A recent article in “Business of Fashion” posed the question,  “Are New Materials Ready to Go Mainstream?”  The answer appears to be “no”.  Why is that?

There are several factors contributing to this.  Firstly, there was so much hype around the creation of these materials when the scalability did not happen within the speed the fashion industry demands.  As a result, sadly, there are halts in the evolution and scalability of many of these much-anticipated material innovators.  Bolt Threads announced in July 2023 that it was halting production.  On August 23, Amyris filed for bankruptcy.

The BoF article goes on to state, “When Business gets tough, Brands opt for cheaper and more proven materials.”  The article also discusses the viability of recently exciting fabric and fibre developments and how these materials must have equivalent or better properties than fossil-based materials to gain a commercial competitive advantage.   

So what is The Road Ahead?

Certainly, we need alternatives to dirty and thirsty materials.  However, they must be viable, priced within reality and accessible.  The easiest step forward must lie within the cellulosic fibre groups.  The lab-grown and bio-fabricated innovations have huge potential, but they also need to be realised commercially to transform the world of fashion materials.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Take care,

Kate xx

Quiet Luxury - Is It A Positive Direction Or Just Another Trend?

Everywhere on Social Media and wherever else possible, we have been hearing about “Quiet Luxury”.  As I write this, I feel rather late to the party - sorry.  However, this is very relevant. Now that the hype is over, we can see this sartorial movement's potential impact and longevity.

Image curtesy of Fashion United

WHAT IS QUIET LUXURY?

 According to Wikipedia:

“Quiet luxury is a lifestyle characterised by understated elegance and refined consumption, emphasising exclusivity and discerning taste without overt displays of wealth.  Other terms to describe the same concept include stealth wealth, old money aesthetic, or silent luxury.”  

It came upon us through a series of recent events and appearances:

  • The SUCCESSION effect: This HBO drama was about a power-hungry global media conglomerate billionaire family and their crazy conniving ways to take over from the patriarch.  The wardrobe was muted, quiet, quite boring and epitomised by the unbranded 500 USD “Loro Piana” cap as worn by the character Kendall Roy.

Succession - The Roy Family

  • Gwyneth Paltrow’s civil court appearance for the Utah Ski accident where she turned up in “Billionaire chic”.  Nothing impressive, more Loro Piana, muted tones, cashmere, all high-priced pieces and certainly some GOOP own-brand items.

“The Row” is literally everywhere.  The Olsen Twins have relentlessly pursued their quiet luxury brand.  Their price point reflects their commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, luxurious materials and meticulous attention to detail.  Each piece is meticulously constructed by skilled artisans using the finest fabrics, resulting in garments and accessories that stand the test of time.                           

Now, their bags are becoming the new “it” bags, starting at 3000USD and going up to Hermes price points with ease.

  • Sophia Richie’s wedding, where the bride has clearly shed her LA “young girlfriend” in the Kardashian circle to become elegant, minimal and mega-rich.  As clearly displayed in her multiple low-key Chanel gowns.

Is “Quiet Luxury” a positive fashion direction or just another trend?  Let’s have a look.

WHAT IS GOOD ABOUT IT?

  • Quiet luxury is a positive direction in the future of fashion as it focuses on high-quality, timeless pieces that are ethically and sustainably made.  This shift towards more mindful and intentional consumption aligns with the growing demand for sustainable fashion.

  • Unlike trends that come and go, quiet luxury emphasises the value of craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the use of luxurious, eco-friendly materials.  This long-term approach challenges the fast fashion industry and encourages consumers to think about the longevity and durability of their clothing.

  • The impact of overconsumption on the environment and the well-being of garment workers has pushed the fashion industry to reconsider its practices.  Quiet Luxury offers a solution by promoting a more ethical and responsible approach to fashion, focusing on quality, longevity and style.

All of this sounds great.  At face value, this seems like significant progress.  However, anything arising from popular culture has to be considered a trend.  People are wearing those Loro Piana Caps exactly because of Kendall Roy.  The stealth wealth chic has come to the fore after the maximalist trend (as epitomised by Alessandro Michele’s Gucci and his subsequent minimalist replacement).  TikTok has brought this trend to its viral status with over 35 Billion views.  Let’s be clear: this is clearly a trend.  We need to take the authenticity of Quiet Luxury as seriously as @Gstaadguy.  The hilarious tongue-in-cheek channel making fun of the 1%.  

Gstaadguy - image curtesy of Lux Magazine

The fundamentals of Quiet Luxury are based on excellent intentions: supporting workers' rights, living wages, ethical materials, craftsmanship, and being a conscious consumer who shops for investment and keeps the clothes for a long time, shopping aligned with your values and being aware of over-consumption and where to spend.  All the things we talk about on this blog.  This is real progress.  Sadly, the reality is not aligned with this.  

Upon closer look, many of the Quiet Luxury brands are not ethical, sustainable or, as “good on you” states, “Not taking adequate steps to ensure payment of a living wage for its workers”, “environment rating is very poor”, “it uses a few eco-materials”, “there is no evidence it has taken meaningful action to reduce or eliminate hazardous chemicals”.

Sadly, this is the case for many of the brands mentioned here.

 Yesterday, I saw a lady dressed in this Quiet Luxury aesthetic.  It was beautiful, classic and very chic.  I don’t know what the labels were; nothing was branded except for her well-worn, never-full LV.  She clearly always dressed that way; she was at ease and looked comfortable, not out to impress.

In summary, if Quiet Luxury is a positive step forward for fashion or a trend, it is entirely up to us.  We can buy ethical, sustainable fashion and wear it for years.  Or we can dress for a trend created by a TV show and then move on. 

My fabulous upcycled blouse by @DesignBlender

I know what I am doing:- 

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love

Kate xx

How to Start a Sustainable Brand in 2024

Welcome back, Darlings,
Are you looking for a new venture or adventure this year?

Have you had some dreams you want to fulfil and a place to express your style vision?

Are you ready to take the first step?

Is this your year to make your mark in the fashion world, and are you committed to doing it consciously and ethically?

We’ve got you!

Photo by Ray Piedra

I have been advising people and brands just like you to do just that. 

After much reflection and consideration, here is my take on:

THE FIVE STEPS TO CREATING AN ETHICAL AND FINANCIALLY SUSTAINABLE BRAND IN 2024.

VISION - Your “WHY”. 

What is your vision for the future of fashion?  Is it relevant and robust enough to create an impact and sustain you financially, mentally, and spiritually as you grow and develop?  Get clear on WHY you want to do this and the differences you want to make in your life and the lives of those involved with your Brand—everyone: Customers, Suppliers and Workers, Employees, Designers, Investors, your family and friends.  The Vision is critical to the foundation and fundamentals of how you will create, operate and deliver your message and products.

Image by Polina Zimmerman

Image by Polina Zimmerman

Here are a few areas to consider: empowering creatives, replacing materials made from fossil fuels, building an environment of empowerment and respect, transparency, clean water, and education.  My own vision is for beauty to be created and expressed through art and fashion by bringing awareness to nature and the systems of nature.  To inspire, empower and transform.

CUSTOMER, CLIENT OR MUSE. 

You need a customer to sell to.  You may be your first customer, as you have a problem you need to solve.  Maybe it is a specific performance requirement for sport or lifestyle (like clothing that keeps you cool while you exercise and helps you recover after the sport) or something you always wanted to make you feel great (a gorgeous bag made in a community and not from a large luxury goods company).  Whatever it is, get clear on your customer - so clear you know what they would want for lunch.  Who is he or she, and will they buy your products, accessories, education, or services?  Why will they buy this, and how will it make them feel?  There are so many products and services available; what differentiates your offer?

My customers would be those who want products that inspire them to be greater versions of themselves.  Fashion has historically been exclusive; I would seek to create love and connection.

COMMITMENT FOR CONTRIBUTION.

Consider and be clear on the difference and impact you want to make for the future of fashion.  There are so many “things” on this planet; we do not need more cheap fashion or accessories.  Everything created needs a reason for being, a purpose, a contribution to the earth and the future of fashion.  For example, replacements for polyester materials, upcycling, crafts, artisanal techniques, and rewarding and empowering working conditions.

Photo by Maria Orlova

My commitment to contribution is to upcycle beautiful items from the past and give them beauty and life—the revival and awareness for fine tailoring and techniques of the past made by craftspeople.

HERO PRODUCT.

If you could only have one product, what would it be?  An impeccable, ethically sourced sweater with a circular return system, where the wool is reused in a magical way?  Whatever the product, it must have some positive impact on the planet, creating a legacy, educating and impacting life, not fashion for the sake of it.

Mine would be a beautiful dress taken from the past (an existing dress or dresses), with beautiful techniques, customised for the client.  Demi-couture without couture costs: a carefully created selection of clothing which gives life to the fashion of the past with love and respect. 

Repurposed Dress and Fabric created by DesignBlender

COACH, MENTOR OR COMMUNITY. 

Have someone who is an expert in the area and can support you clearly and concisely.  This is such a vital part of your life and future.  Being surrounded by and connected with someone or some people who can make it easier is invaluable.  Get one now or join my upcoming community in February 2024.

Whatever you are committed to, you are an essential part of the creation of the future of fashion.

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

Love and best wishes for 2024

Kate x

Sustainable Style: Leading the future of Fashion in 2024.

We are all at the start of another new year - 2024.  I am sure you are all very much looking forward to an extraordinary year ahead; I certainly am.

At this point, let’s look back at 2023. It’s been a bit of a mixed bag.  We have seen some significant initiatives, a greater commitment to sustainability, and we’ve also seen the antithesis of that.  We have seen some extraordinary brands grow and evolve.  We have witnessed revenge shopping and travel and the end of that, too. In this blog, I have written about all kinds of things, extraordinary startups in the sustainability world, and how Brands have missed their targets or objectives for Sustainability.  There is excitement for the future and also the fears and trepidation of what the year may bring.  After all, 2023  was the hottest year on record.  Climate change is real, and we have all experienced its effects.

The Stelar Team

Here is a question for you:

“If you could all wave a magic wand over 2024, how would you create it to be?”

I will list the questions below so we can all work together to answer this (as the content I write is just my opinion); I’m sure you have some great ideas of your own. 

Let’s have fun, love life and enjoy fashion.

QUESTION 1: TRANSPARENCY - One of the key headlines for this year is transparency. 

“Do you really want to know where your clothing is coming from?  Would that change your buying habits? Would it make you more conscious?  How much do you care, and what would you be willing to change to make this happen?”

 It is important to me that I’m conscious about what I’m buying.  I don’t always read all the provenance labels, but then I am quite aware of where and how things have been made.  What’s very important for me is for the supply chain to be compliant and for the people to be taken care of in making them.  I don’t purchase from places where I know the workers' rights, conditions, and pay are sketchy and the supply chain is unclear.

If I could wage a magic wand on Fashion this year, there would be a lot more clarity from Brands and Businesses on Transparency so, as consumers, we know where our purchases came from.

QUESTION 2: CIRCULARITY OR END OF LIFE - This is a huge consideration for the Future of Fashion.  

“How can we dispose of our clothes consciously?”  “Is this important to you?”

This is a consideration we could benefit so greatly from.  The waste to landfill of clothing remains significant.  Whilst substantial restrictions will be implemented in the EU, other geographies are nowhere near resolving this; in fact, this is a global issue.  For many people, it is hard to know where and how to dispose of their old clothing consciously.  Do Charities and NGOs want or need them?  Is resale a solution, and can they really be recycled?

If I could wave a magic wand, I would have many products available with a robust and transparent “end of life or circular solution” built in and available at purchase.

QUESTION 3: EDUCATION THROUGH COLLABORATION - a powerful potential for the future of fashion.

“How do we educate consumers of Fashion to be more conscious and aware?”

Sustainable Fashion has its own language, which can be confusing, and it is easy to fall for greenwashing or think everything is greenwashing.

I constantly talk about Sustainable Fashion to others (friends, family, clients).  Many think they have to stop shopping or feel guilty, don’t know what to do, or don’t know the best solution.

If I could wave a magic wand over this area, I would provide easy and fun education, making it available at scale.  A type of education that would make consumers more aware, help brands become sustainable, and work with startups to create a robust, sustainable roadmap for their brand or business.  Watch this space - because this is coming soon!

QUESTION 4: ENCOURAGE BRANDS WITH PURPOSE - a powerful force for the future of fashion.

“How do we support and promote Brands and Businesses with a mission and commitment to making the world and fashion a better place?”

Do you prefer to buy from Brands or Businesses with a commitment and who strive to impact the world for the better?  These smaller Brands are often not easily seen or accessed.  Brands that are contributing to communities, creating awareness, and innovating for material sustainability are so critical to the future of the planet.

In this area, I would wave my magic wand to have these small giants be seen and championed.  To have them brought to the forefront by amazing collaborations with Luxury Goods Companies or other large brand groups.  Bringing their innovations and superpowers into view and experience at scale for the greater good of the future of fashion.

The new year, 2024, will bring many experiences and circumstances, some we like and others we do not.  However, we all have the power to make an impact through our purchasing and how we choose to consume.  Let’s make a huge difference this year.  

As always, have fun, love life, and enjoy fashion.

I hope you all have a wonderful New Year’s Eve and all the very best for 2024.

Love, Kate x