Big Step In Luxury Escapism?

Some very interesting news hit the Luxury Hospitality and Fashion space in early August 2023, and news that is very close to my heart.  The Pellicano Group sold a stake to Aermont Capital.  A part of the deal is Aermont committing to 200 Million EURO to acquire new properties across Italy for the Pellicano group, thus expanding the Brand and its influence.  

Artwork by Kate Padget-Koh

Let’s give some context: Pellicano Hotels - https://www.pellicanohotels.com/en/ -  is a family-run Italian hotel group led by the internationally stylish, very well-connected taste-maker Marie Louise Scio, who is both the CEO and Creative Director.  The properties include the original “IL Pellicano”, where Scio lived as a child, “La Pasta Vecchia”, the former Roman Hideaway of John Paul Getty and the recently acquired “Mezzotorre” on the magical island of Ischia.  These are hotels with so much more.  Due to Scio’s extraordinary vision and taste, she has really captured a magical dream, which she is committed to sharing and expanding further. 

Why is this close to my heart?  “Il Pellicano” is one of my favourite places on earth.  We first visited in 2000 during our Honeymoon in Italy.  We have visited several times since then; the stay always feels like it is not long enough and far too infrequent.  We have stayed at “La Posta Vecchia” several times and had our first trip to “Mezzotorre” in 2022.  Why do we love these properties and this Brand so much?  These are clearly luxury hotels, yet they are so much more.  Many luxury hotel brands can be exclusive, rather imposing and formal; Pellicano is cool, vibrant, stylish and fun, with a lot of timeless class.  You feel like you are part of a very cool movie or group of friends—a warm sense of belonging and familiarity, driven through amazing service and attention to detail.  

Why this deal is so interesting is that it is more than opening several new hotels.  The Pellicano Group “has brought a unique point of view to top-end hospitality, melding old-school charm with modern fashionability, and turned a business that began with a single hotel owned by her father into a global lifestyle brand with multiple revenue streams.” - Business of Fashion.  One of those revenue streams is “Issimo”, a Fashion and lifestyle brand established during the pandemic, presumably to bring a taste of Italian (and Il Pellicano) magic to guests who could not travel there.  I certainly shopped from the site and still pore over every launch and email.  I had a bottle of “Il Pellicano” bagnoschiuma (shower gel), which I sniffed many times during the pandemic to remind me of those magical times that seemed so far away.  As Scio loves to say, “Italians do it better”; in this case, they certainly do.  

As always in this blog, I seek the psychology or feeling behind this event or direction.  I see not only the trend of return or revenge travel but also a sense of escapism, similar to the subject of my previous blog on Zimmermann becoming a Billion-dollar dreamy resort dressing brand.  Are these closely timed deals an indication of our desire to escape to some magical world where there are no wars, climate change or other impending doom? Indeed, a stay at any of the Pellicano Properties (wearing Zimmermann) will have you feel like a Principessa (or Princess).  While this sense of escapism is relevant, there are so many other possibilities for the future.

Il Pellicano always had a cache, founded by an American Heiress and her War Hero Husband on the Argentario coast, it was the place for many celebrities, including Charlie Chaplin in his later years and, of course, Robert Scio, Marie Louise’s father.  These heady years were documented by both John Swope and Slim Aarons. 

Since then, Scio has relentlessly created the relevance and desirability of the Brand.  She developed fashion collaborations with “For Restless Sleepers”, Birkenstock, APC, Aquazzurra and Matches Fashion, creating unique and very cool items; items that will be treasured when you go home, rather than the vacation shopping regrets we have all had - seemed like a good idea at the time, but I can’t wear it!   Scio has also published an amazing book on Il Pellicano with photos by Juergen Teller.  

Image from the Pellicano Group Website

The uncompromising vision and commitment is something that really resonates with me.  The pursuit of magic, beauty and belonging, executed impeccably, is inspiring.  Luxury has become an overused word, often with the feeling you are not quite there until you buy another bag or something else, when Luxury could simply be natural beauty, a sense of belonging and love for quality, all executed with impeccable service for the customer or Client.

Thank you, Marie Louise Scio, for sharing your magic and vision.

Kind regards,
Kate

Kate Padget-Koh




The Zimmermann Effect!

There have been some interesting developments in the Fashion world recently after the recent stagnation in the industry.  Tapestry will acquire Michael Kors, Jimmy Choo and Versace in an $8.5 billion deal to make them a serious heavyweight in the luxury sector.  Kering has said it would acquire 30% of Valentino for 1.7 Billion Euros.  

There has been little movement in Fashion M&A due to rising interest rates and concerns about slowing consumer demands.  Then last week, we heard the significant and rather unexpected news that Zimmermann had sold a majority stake to Advent International, a Private Equity Group.  This values Zimmermann at approximately 1.15 Billion USD, making them Australia's first billion-dollar fashion brand.  

As with my other blogs, I look at the psychological effect of fashion, and this is a good example.  “The Zimmermann-effect”.  I used to travel to Australia annually, primarily to visit family.  My last visit was in 2017; obviously, annual visits were stalled by the pandemic and inevitable border restrictions.   Coming back, as I have in the past week, has been quite a revelation in fashion terms.  Hence the “Zimmermann effect”.

 Australia has undoubtedly had many talented Fashion Designers - Scanlon Theodore, Camilla, Dion Lee, Lisa Ho, and Rebecca Valance, to name a few, past and present.  They have their own aesthetic, similar to Scandinavian Designers, with a limited scope to impact and sell globally.  It is a shame, as these tremendously talented Designers remain largely unseen.  

 This was all to change with Zimmermann.  Zimmermann was established in 1991 by sisters Simone and Nicky Zimmermann.  The label was always a presence in the Swimwear fashion category in the Australian Fashion world.  However, an investment from Style Capital, an Italian private equity firm, changed all of that.  Around 2016 I started noticing more brand awareness among influencers, magazines and media outlets.  There was a new energy around the Brand, and the aesthetic was so new and right for that moment.  

On a trip to Melbourne, I visited the new Boutique and quickly bought two dresses that I wore extensively for several years.  As an early adopter, I loved this trend of pretty, ethereal wrap dresses.  I went on to buy and wear other pieces, much to the admiration of others.  Stores and outlets opened in major cities, such as London, LA etc.  The aesthetic captured a glamorous resort mood, the feeling of always being on a fabulous vacation, even if you were just going to work or for dinner in your home town.  Suddenly, Zimmermann dresses and outfits were everywhere.  

Let’s circle back to the recent Australia trip and the “Zimmermann effect”.  The Brand has been on a committed strategy to build its business and influence.  On my earlier trips to Australia, the clothes and fashion worn on the street were somewhat dull and indistinct (mainly due to the high import taxes of clothing).  However, this past week I have seen so many beautifully dressed women in Zimmermann or Zimmermann look-a-likes.  This is the Zimmermann effect.  By raising their profile, aesthetic and influence, Zimmermann has raised that of the Fashion of Australia. Hopefully, this will impact the entire Australian Fashion Industry and its talented designers.

All the best,

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

Travel Dressing

I used to travel a lot, often twice a month; one year when I travelled for over 150 days.  These were usually short trips — 4 days on average and primarily for Business. 

I kept a suitcase partially packed in preparation for the next flight that contained trainers, a wash bag, workout clothes, lingerie and travel adapters.  The clothes were not a constant; I would change the wardrobe depending upon the climate to be visited, what I was doing during the trip and, most importantly, what trends I wore at the time.

Photo by Marissa Grootes

Since then, a lot has changed.  We had a pandemic, travel was suspended, and I had an existential crisis, which shifted my dressing and buying habits.  Since then, my travelling has also changed.  I have travelled less frequently but for longer trips and different purposes.  Last year, I spent five months travelling across the UK, Europe, Dubai and Singapore for a mix of working, escaping strict quarantine measures and seeing friends and family.  

This required a whole new approach to a travel wardrobe.  For multiple climates, seasons, occasions and functions, I needed to be able to carry everything and pack frequently.  Coinciding with writing these blogs, I started to explore a simpler way to dress and pack that is not only convenient but also aligned with my values of conscious consumption as an aware consumer.  

My life has many demands, and I live a very fulfilled and expanded work life, which I love.  I live a very adventurous travel and social life and constantly want to develop myself professionally, creatively and socially.  This requires a clear, disciplined and organised mind and approach to life.  There is no room for chaos and drama.

What does this have to do with my wardrobe?  A simple approach to dressing, especially for travelling, paves the way for peace of mind and room to focus.  With this clarity, I can take on so much professionally while travelling, being creative and being with my loved ones. 

I travel to Australia this week to see family we have not seen for five years.  It is an important trip, and I need to work every day and maintain my marathon training.  As I left 35C Hong Kong for a much colder climate, I was so grateful for the system I have developed for a wardrobe (and life) which works effortlessly.  My simple yet effective system includes the following:

  • Workout clothes

  • Down gilet

  • A good suit

  • Tees

  • Two shirts

  • Two fabulous dresses (for those dinners)

  • Two hero pants or shorts

  • Sneakers

  • Heels

  • Loafers

  • Lingerie and a swimsuit

Regardless of the contents of my travel wardrobe, the progress I have made in my journey to conscious consumption has been a revelation.  I created a new way to live a life that inspires me daily.  I talk a lot about clothes and conscious consumerism; mostly, my commitment is for you (as my beloved readers) to live a fulfilled and adventurous life filled with joy!

Kind regards

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

FASHIONABLE FUTURES

Let’s Talk About Thrifting…

The recent news in fashion has been awash with the extremes of circularity to overconsumption.  Shein achieved its highest sales in the first two quarters of 2023.  Meanwhile, BoF had an excellent article on thrifting:  “Resale won’t fix fast fashion’s sustainability issues”.

Photo by cottonbro studio

So let’s have a look at thrifting and what a great step forward this is for the future of fashion. 

What exactly is thrifting?  

Thrifting - Meaning:

“Simply put, thrifting means to go shopping at a thrift store, garage sale, or flea market where you’ll find gently used items at discounted prices.”

This is a recently popularised term since consignment and preloved shopping have become new ways to engage with fashion.  

So, it is a good thing - right? It adds a circular dimension to the Fashion economy, where consumers can buy “gently used” items instead of more fast fashion. 

But is that really what happens?

In the earlier mentioned “Business of Fashion” article published this week, “Resale won’t fix fast fashion’s sustainability issues”, BoF discussed the issue of millions of pieces of fast fashion products showing up on resale sights. So much so that “Vestiare Collective” have banned brands like ASOS and Boohoo from listing on their site. The enormous quantity of fast fashion that has been produced in the past two decades is choking our world and resale sites.  

To resell is said to be “disposing of clothing responsibly”. Yet what value do these clothes have?  

What is the point of thrifting anyway? After some thoughts and discussions with experienced thrift shopper Daisy,  a few interesting points came into view.  

The intention of thrifting is:

  • To dispose of clothing responsibly 

  • To add a circular element to the fashion system.  

  • To acquire unusual clothing to contribute to your own unique style/wardrobe.  

  • To buy something aspirational at a lower cost, so you can actually own a brand you could normally not afford.

Sadly, it seems some consumers are using thrifting to shop trends. So now there is another step in the fashion cycle, and because thrifted clothes are even cheaper, no wonder the primary production of cheap clothing is still increasing. This completely defeats the object of resale. Why is it that when there is an opportunity to be more conscious of shopping choices, we so easily take the approach of buying more, using quickly and discarding it to buy more again? “If you are approaching thrifting the same as (Using) fashion in general, there’s no point” — quote from Daisy. 

So where do we go with all of this? We cannot stop the over-production. After all, Shein “achieved its highest profits in the first half of 2023”. So many consumers are not “with the programme” of conscious shopping. What can we do as individuals?

  • Consider why you are buying it.

  • Develop a personal style. Get to know what suits you and populate your wardrobe accordingly. This is very fulfilling.

  • Don’t shop trends.

  • Fast Fashion is not bad; it is the behaviour of throwaway fashion that causes the issues.

  • Value your clothes.

  • Educate yourself so that you understand the impact of your behaviour.

Most of all - Enjoy fashion; love life! My mantra!

With love,

Kate

Kate Padget-Koh

What is the Future of Luxury?

Last week, I had the absolute joy and privilege to visit a new dear friend and incredible impact entrepreneur, Lorna Watson of “Stelar”.  

STELAR:

“We work directly with artisans in Bali to create unique, hand-woven and handcrafted accessories that have history and meaning. STELAR is re-imagining indigenous skills that have been passed down from generation to generation to create long-term positive impact and sustainable livelihoods within the communities that most rely upon them.”

A selection of products from Stelar

Not only are these products fulfilling so many criteria as an impact business they are also beautiful, luxurious and ultimately authentic. Lorna has committed herself to bringing value and awareness to the traditions of Bali’s communities. Her unquestionable love for the island, its people and its traditions is deeply moving (I had a case of Founder envy). The Brand has taken something traditional and almost forgotten and brought it to the current demands and desires of the modern world, creating an outstanding example for the Future of Fashion. The products are luxurious, easy to understand, reasonably priced and full of love. I have a few pieces, a phone carrier, a hat, a visor and a gorgeous tote that I love. I bought a Men’s Tote for my husband.  

A few days later, I went out with my recently purchased famous Brand Ch**el bag. I felt quite shocked by how much this once-so-desired bag had lost its appeal to me. What was it that had changed? Was it my rapidly evolving need for newness? Could I so easily and quickly be over a very desirable bag? I had been obsessed with this bag; I had pinned it on Pinterest, hunted for it on Vestiare, watched some Youtube videos on the said bag, and I even dreamed about it.  After a matter of months, it was no longer my ‘it’ or ‘trophy’ bag. I was really annoyed with myself, and I started to question my own sense of logic and commitment to impacting the future of anything (let alone fashion).

Now let’s step back to the beginning of this blog. I was moved by the Stelar creations, a deep appreciation of the journey to create every bag or basket. During my visit to the Stelar Office, I met some of the Artisans, who were clearly so proud of their work and loved being a part of this Brand. The mesmerising stories Lorna shared of the miracles happening as she developed Stelar through these communities. Stelar has a sense of kismet, fated destiny or good karma, as if the stars had aligned to make this beautiful Brand happen. Bali is a profoundly spiritual and magical place that connects with us deeply. Lorna had experienced that during her first trip. She was drawn to make this happen, let’s say, to bring this magic to life through her Business and products. This is truly extraordinary.

My Branded Luxury Bag had grown tired so quickly due to the lack of connection and absence of authenticity I felt to it. At one time, Chanel was like Stelar, created with love, passion and commitment. This bag is still a very desirable bag and well-made. What I consider for myself is the ineffable effect of Stelar’s products when compared to my Chanel bag. There is a sense of something greater than a manufactured bag. To quote Lorna: “Made in communities, not factories”. Is this magical connection something we are craving from a deep place?

In these blogs, I explore the concept of being an aware or conscious consumer. I am constantly looking at what will be the Future of Fashion.   

Stelar is the epitome of the Future of Fashion that I look forward to. Authentic, respectful, conscious, ethical, beautiful and positively impacting the lives of those involved.     

Great work; amazing, Lorna and everyone at Stelar.  

This Brand is an example of the future of luxury. I look forward to your continued success and the inspiration you are to so many others. This is proof of creating a dream fulfilled.

Until next time, take care.

Kate Padget-Koh