A creative supply chain is one that does some good while putting beautiful clothing into the world.

These days, it seems the news and many conversations are filled with challenges around the supply chain industry. The shipping costs have escalated, limits to raw materials, access limited across countries and regions, sanctions, rising energy prices and general economic gloom.

Challenging times like these always bring great opportunities. Pre-pandemic supply chains were very focused on efficiencies, volumes, movement of goods from low-cost environments and how to create margin from buying from underdeveloped countries. Essentially, buying from the Third World to sell to the First World, using large factories, low-cost raw materials and low labour costs. 

The pandemic has escalated the awareness of sustainability in the fashion and lifestyle sector. Additionally, many new brands have been created from independent sources, people who have a point of view and want to contribute something to the world, rather than buying from large faceless conglomerates. This is, actually, such a joyful progression, with many start-ups citing sustainability as a key pillar or core value. 

If we would move too far away from this previous description of a supply chain, what would that be? This new Supply Chain would be creative, it would be sustainable, and it would honour those people connected with it. By taking into consideration every aspect of the chain, it would provide value at all levels and to all involved, from creator to consumer. It will also provide the workers with a lifestyle and a way of working, a cultural environment that is rewarding, respectful and creates growth for them. The materials would not be depleting; they would be innovating and influencing future materials and models. These materials would care for the consumer, as well as the planet. The Supply Chain would encourage biodiversity rather than harming it. 

The Supply Chain would be transparent. So the consumer will know exactly what they were purchasing, including all the actions and impacts throughout the supply chain. It would look at crafts that have long been forgotten or those crafts on the way to being forgotten. It would encourage and educate people to learn those crafts and keep them alive for future generations. So the skills of artisans and artists are valued, rather than working in factories and constantly looking for lower overheads.

I'm not being idealistic; I don't think. 

So, here is an opportunity to feature a brand so extraordinary and, having created this commitment, will be a new, future Luxury Brand.

"Stelar". Are they doing everything perfectly? No. But, they are doing a lot, which is amazing.

Here are a few ways they are making the supply chain more sustainable:

1. TRACEABILITY: They care about where their products come from, who made them and how and when, using locally sourced raw materials. 

2. MADE IN COMMUNITIES, NOT FACTORIES: Such a great and more holistic way of looking at the supply chain.

3. COMMITMENT TO UNITED NATION'S GOALS: They work to contribute to the achievement of goals; #1 Poverty Reduction, #5 Gender Quality, #8 Decent Work and Economic Growth, #12 Responsible Consumption and Production.

Learn more about their impact and brand here.

Thanks

Kate Padget-Koh

Recently, the Supply Chain has become more conscious with greater considerations around sustainability, ethics and human rights. But, how does this fit with the capitalist culture of growth forever?

This is a question I’m constantly pondering. The Global Fashion Business is worth 3 Trillion USD (2% of global GDP). It has doubled since 2000. The industry’s phenomenal growth is unquestionable. So how does this fit with ethics and sustainability; how can we continue to consume while being more conscious.

Let’s look at this in a number of ways. First of all, are we really becoming more conscious, more aware and more sustainable? How much clothing that we are currently buying is really sustainable? Are recycled polyester and organic cotton robust solutions for the future, or does it provide a caveat for fast fashion retailers to continue making vast amounts of products and selling them under the auspices of sustainability and conscious consumerism?

And many of us will say: “Well, I buy preloved, consignment, vintage or thrift”. This is also a great solution, but on closer review of any of the key consignment models or platforms, there are brand new items there. Are we fooling ourselves? Is it just a cheaper way to keep shopping with the side portion of sustainability to relieve our conscience?

I’m not proposing that we stop shopping and stop producing, but who is going to take action? How do we, as consumers, consume less. What is the delicate balance between growth and sustainability? Where and how are we as consumers going to be conscious and, really, there’s so much temptation around us. Endless newsletters, constant discounts, social media filled with advertisements, influencers and special offers all tempt us to keep purchasing.

So what is the solution? There isn’t one way until there is governmental legislation to prevent fast fashion from that constant growth spree; Shein will continue producing endless amounts of product. Zara, H&M and Uniqlo will provide semi-conscious and sustainable versions of what we’ve been so used to buying. How many of us will actually take on being conscious consumers?

I am setting you all a challenge: how about not buying any item of clothing for the next three months?  

For Brands: who is going to be the first one with a completely circular solution?

Now that is a game worth playing.

Thanks

Kate Padget-Koh

THE FUTURE OF FAST FASHION

I'm always looking for indications of future trends in fashion, clothing and lifestyle brands.

Over the past week, a few things have been brought to my awareness through several key conversations I have had and articles I've read, plus some of my own musings. These have started to indicate something that I find quite interesting, quite a critical question for those involved in a brand's supply chain in the future.

There are several seemingly unconnected incidents that, when connected, point to something approaching a future trend.

Last Saturday, I woke up very early and started to browse the BBC website. I was attracted to an article on 'Misguided', the now almost bankrupt fast fashion brand. Recently bought by Fraser/Sports Direct in a fire sale for 20MGBP, the CEO, Nitin Passi, stepped down in May. Since then, Alteri Investors Corporation has been operating the company with suppliers forcing bankruptcy due to their unpaid invoices. The company was cited as claiming the global shipping crisis, inflated courier costs and supply chain challenges to have impacted the business so much that they could no longer trade. 

The next item is: I heard that Zara is charging for returns. It may only be 1.95 GBP, but it is a charge, which we would hope would discourage customers from buying 5 and keeping 1.  

My next question is: Is the fast fashion business model effective any longer? Does it really work? When we look at low price entry clothing coming from third world countries, we find a model that requires a lot of stock and inventory, plus a requirement to move this through logistics, the cost of which has escalated.  

It certainly points to a chink in the armour of the previously seemingly impenetrable fast fashion industry. When we put all these challenges onto this model, it can't really work anymore.

The next question is on the proposed European legislation on Fast Fashion. As someone engaged in the Financial Times Non-executive Direct Programme, I spent a large chunk of time last weekend reviewing directors' responsibilities and what they could be held accountable for. Having been pondering the above questions and considering the European legislation, what are the potential issues for anybody on the board of a large fashion company? Are the Boards willing to take on these accountabilities? Who will take them seriously, and who will be the first to be impacted.  

The future of Fashion is about Sustainable Fashion in many aspects, through Design, Materials, Sourcing and Regulation. By 2030, it will be impossible to ignore legislation implemented, and the cost of entry to Fast Fashion will become much higher and considered. So, looking forward to seeing how the state of Fashion 2030 will be, let's look forward to Fashion being a "force for good".

Thanks

Kate Padget-Koh

What is Sustainable Fashion, and why is it becoming so important?

HERE'S WHAT YOU CAN DO TO BE PART OF THIS AS A BRAND OWNER/FOUNDER OR CREATIVE:

"Sustainable Fashion", as a definition, refers to the garments that have been made in a way that is mindful of many environmental issues that the fashion industry touches upon.

Why Sustainable Fashion is increasingly so important — sustainable fashion brands create clothing and accessories in ways that most respect and consider the people involved and the environment by reducing the environmental impact wherever they possibly can. The ultimate goal of sustainable fashion is to have a fashion system that works without leaving a negative impact or footprint.

Traditionally, the fashion industry is pretty dirty and wasteful. Recently, we have made some progress, but the majority of Fashion Brands were "ticking boxes" by doing the minimum. During the pandemic, we saw how clean our skies were; how animals were coming back to places where they had not been seen for many years. We began to see the opportunity for a world that is slower, less polluted and more conscious. The pandemic literally disrupted the whole world. The younger generations, especially Gen Z, are becoming more aware of their impact on the environment, and I am no longer willing to only hope it gets better. They are taking action in the way they spend and consume. These people are often the Brand Creatives, Founders and Influencers.

As a passionate lover of Fashion and especially Sustainable Fashion, I have devoted my career to bettering the practices of the industry.  

I moved to Asia in the mid-'90s to pursue my career in Fashion Knitwear Design. At that time, the industry was starting its growth in importing from Asia. Working as a Designer in the UK was very difficult. Positions were few and poorly paid. I was given an opportunity to work in the Hong Kong Office of an importer to Europe. This was to kick-start my career in the Design, Sourcing and Selling of clothing.

In 2022, the Global size of the Fashion/Clothing Industry is forecast at 1.7 Trillion USD, up from 1 Trillion USD in 2011. Back in the mid-'90s, we looked for cheaper ways to make fashionable designs to sell to as many people as possible. The company I worked for was the largest importer in Europe. 

Every 1.5 people had a piece of our clothing. Our Trading Partners were New Look, Primark, and Mark One, who made fashionable clothing available to the public at very affordable prices. As a designer in this company, I was well-known. I worked very hard and travelled constantly; life was work, and work was life.

A lot has changed since then. The size of the Fast Fashion Industry is colossal, with prices cheaper than ever. The son of my boss from the '90s has his own Fast Fashion Digital Business with a valuation of Half a Billion USD. "Shein" adds 6,000+ new designs daily. The concerns about the impact of Fast Fashion and overproduction are real. There is a polarisation of fashion with the Luxury resale at one end, with Boo-hoo and Shein at the other.

The motivation for recreating my career is to impact the future of the industry I love. 

To partner with Brands who are walking the sensitive line of doing good and making more margin. One of the core competencies of my existing Consultancy Business is to increase margin while improving quality. We create Sustainable Strategies and advise Startups on creating Sustainable Brands.  

As a Brand Owner, Founder, or Influencer, it is a responsibility and a privilege to have your place in the future of Fashion. So what part you play is really critical. As a Brand, what are 5 KEY STEPS you can make?

Develop a philosophy and plan. Consider the area you want to champion.  Is it water, plastic, leather/fur/feather-free? 

1. Are you a champion of innovative sustainable materials?

2. Educate yourself and your team: This is a long journey and a shift in mindset. Make it exciting, collaborative and fun. There are so many extraordinary courses and programmes, as well as influencers committed to sharing their knowledge.

Explore inspiring Brands and Stories: There are more and more Innovative Brands, Startups and larger Brands whose products and processes are committed to sustainable materials and practices. 

1. Now, we see Luxury Brands expressing their commitment – Chloe and Stella McCartney – with more joining.

Partner and Collaborate with NGOs, materials startups, community projects and charities. Find influencers and creatives in the space to work with. 

1. Collaboration creates more impact and innovation. Together we learn more and connect for the greater good.

2. Celebrate the small wins: Doing something is better than nothing at all. Take small steps and celebrate them. Reward yourself, your team and your partners. Create a community committed to a future that really loves the environment through the expression of your brand and the impact it has.

ENJOY!